Procrastination is my sin.
It brings me naught but sorrow.
I know that I should stop it.
In fact, I will — tomorrow.
Dear oh dear – I must apologise once again to both my readers for having taken so long to update things here. Though progress has been dogged by real life repeatedly barging in, there is in fact quite a bit of progress to report. The trouble is, once you put off writing these updates, the harder it is to get round to doing them.
The first decision after attaching the bottom was how to treat the chines. I had nothing much to go on, but could immediately see that they were a part of the boat that needed protection. The intention always was to sheathe the hull, but it was also clear that the chines were in danger of being a) too sharp to lay glass around and b) of such soft material (okoume) to make the sheathing vulnerable to cracking in the case of even minor impacts.
I therefore decided to rout away about 12mm x 12mm from the corner and replace it with epoxy thickened with high density filler. In the event I ran out of high density filler about half way back, but the standard colloidal silica made a perfectly hard substitute.
When hardened, this was then rounded over with a radius of around 10mm – 12mm. Because the angle of the chine averages about 113°, I could not find a router cutter to do this, so reverted to the real old school technology of a scratch stock
The next step was to cover the chines with glass tape. I am very conscious that Haiku needs to be built lightly, so there was no question of having a really heavy build-up of glass-epoxy, but with the chines I wanted as many layers as possible, and initially at least this tape to span, secure and reinforce the hardened edges. The way I would subsequently sheathe the rest of the hull would mean that the chines would get another two layers of 320g glass. Because of this further glassing to follow, I used peel ply for the taping operation.
While working on the chines, I also took the opportunity to rout out and replace with thickened epoxy these edges of the centreboard cases just below the pivot points. The idea is to provide waterproof areas into which I can rout some recesses, which in turn will accommodate UHMWPE guide strips to keep the centreboards snug while raising and lowering them. For anyone new to UHMWPE, it is an amazing plastic – just a form of polythene so quite cheap, but exceptionally wear resistant and very low friction.